Saturday, March 21, 2009

4 day/3 night Trek

Sundarijal (1295m), Shivapuri National Park, Chisapani (2300m), Kattike, Nagarkot(2175m), Changu Narayan(1541m).

Lokendra picked me up at my hotel by taxi at 9:30am and by 10:15 we were setting off from Sundarijal into Shivapuri National Park. In the parking Lokendra was asked if he could also escort two young Hindu women that were on their way to Chisapani to learn to sew. They were going to do a 6 month internship. The days walk was a steady up hill climb all day but we took it slow and stopped often. I got to set the speed and I believe our two young friends were pleased that I stopped as often as I did. We stopped for an instant noodle soup for lunch and then continued our slow upward climb.

We arrived in Chisapani (not much to see. Feels a bit like a truck stop) at about 3:30pm. As I took a shower Lokendra helped the women find their new home. I then had a nice cup of tea and watched as other trekkers arrived. We were about 10 that evening, Two Englishmen, 2 from Denmark, 3 from Croatia, me, and the Nepalese guides.

We had dinner together in the lodge dining room and then I talked the Englishmen into a game of Word Yahtzee. Lights went out about 8pm and we were all in bed by 9pm.

The next day we started of after everyone else because they were doing a full day trekking all the way to Nagarkot. We only went half way and stayed in a charming little village in Jhules/Kattike. We stayed in a family run guesthouse in the center of the village. I loved sitting out in the front yard watching everyone do their thing. The youngest children played in the street and around the water well. The older children did their studies together or were walking to and from school together. In the morning the men gathered around the “milk tester” I’m not sure what he was testing the milk for, I assume quality of cream? All the adults gathered around for this and it took about an hour. The goats, chickens, roosters, and dogs roamed freely and were also a constant source of entertainment.

There was no hot water or electricity while we were there. So they heated up some water for me to “bucket bath” after our very dusty days trek. Lokendra and I were the only ones there and sat together and chatted and read the Lonely Planet together late into the evening (830pm.)

The third day we walked to Nagarkot. I don’t remember the trail being very difficult. We walked along the mountain rim and arrived into Nagarkot from the top. This is a mountain resort and the town is very limited to a couple cafes, an art shop, and a couple of little stores. Most all the tourism is located in the Large Mountain Top Resorts. There is little to do here other then admire the view, if your lucky enough to get one. I didn’t. The weather has been basically overcast since I’ve arrived in Nepal. Also important to note it is quite cold up here… In the evening I took a blanket from my room to sit snuggled up in the lodge for dinner.

My last day was the most interesting. We walked down the mountain to a ridge that gave beautiful valley views. The path meandered through numerous Newar’s villages and the photo opportunities were limit less. You literally walked through the front yards of these simple relaxed people. The weren’t eager to have their pictures taken so being discrete and having a good zoom lens helps. I imagine they have strangers walking by relatively frequently. They don’t mind you admiring their gardens and examining whatever they are working on (basket weaving, milling and husking corn, making grain alcohol,) but they do get tired of having their picture taken. I’ve got some lovely pictures of Newar daily living.

While today’s trek wasn’t particularly long I was tired. My feet had blisters and it became overcast and rained a bit towards the end. But I’m very glad I held out until Changu Narayan. A beautiful village built on a hill a World Heritage Site since 1972. It is one of the most important monuments of Kathmandu Valley. This village is significant from artistic, religious, cultural, historical and archaeological view point. Artistically there are many wood carvers as well as tangka artists. The Hindu Temple at the top of the hill has amazing original work that dates back to the 5th century. The village itself is archaeologically amazing and one really feels like you’ve gone back in time when visiting.

From Changu Narayan we took a local bus down the mountain, through the valley, offering a bird’s eye view of the lives of it inhabitants along the road side. This trip in itself was a lovely opportunity to sit back and enjoy ones thoughts on the way back to the crazy but wonderful Kathmandu.

1 comment:

  1. Dear Heidi,
    I've not heard from you in a while. Hope you are enjoying your adventures. Please share them with us, we miss them. The end of October we are off to Prague for 10 days, will send you some news when I got back. All the best and take care.
    love,Miryam.

    ReplyDelete